As a buyer how do you balance your buy with both new and established brands? Is there a hidden ratio that brands should know about?

Satomi: Our buying ratio of new brands and established brands is 20% new brands and 80% established. When I say “established brands” I mean existing brands that we already carry, they are not always well-known brands.

I value originality in the brands over newness. The key factor when I look for new brands is “originality” in their creations, that isn't present in designs from any of our existing brands.

During Covid-19, my feeling towards our existing brands who have been working with us for a while and with whom have a good business relationship, has grown stronger and stronger. We really want to help each other get through these difficult times together, and that has made me focus on buying from existing brands rather than trying for new brands, lately.

On the other hand, we never want to stop or skip to keep taking on newness, and we do not want to use Covid-19 as an excuse. As we are facing an extremely challenging time particularly lately, we really want to keep our customers in Japan happy and make them feel excited by offering them fresh, new pieces.

"Thinking back, from the very beginning I think that my

buying has not just been buying goods or items,

it's always been about meeting creators who have their own world."

You have been a buyer for HP France for many years. How has your buying evolved? What is the key element that draws you to a new brand?

Thinking back, from the very beginning I think that my buying has not just been buying goods or items, it's always been about meeting creators who have their own world. Buying is for me not just selecting items one to another, but introducing the creators’ world as directly as possible to our customers in Japan. That is always in my mind when making my selection. We convey creators’ world to our customers and over the years, they become fans of the brand, and then look forward to new collections.

The key element that draws me to a new brand is the originality of their design, the story behind the creation.

I think that our customers now want jewellery pieces that touch their heart more than before. They are not just for dressing up, but are something that could reflect their personality, I have come to favour jewellery that has a strong concept.

How a brand presents digitally is also very important, due to the evolution of social media. Consequently, I tend to be drawn more by brands who can present their collection well in their own style, using digital tools.

"I value the designer’s thoughts,

and the stories behind their creations more than anything else"

How much do each of the following affect your buy:

• Distribution

Recently the difference in retail price between other businesses local to ours and in our own has become more important than before. Due to the rise of large international internet shopping service companies, setting retail prices has become more difficult for us nowadays as they often offer attractive services, such as free shipping, free duties etc.

• PR

In the past, PR activities using Western celebrities were effective in Japan, but the effect is now much weaker due to diversity. I feel that PR in Asia is very effective now.

• Social Media content

This affects my buying the most. I can see that brands that are making good use of it increase sales prominently.

• Sustainability and responsibility

I prefer brands that are conscious about this. Japanese fashion buildings and department stores in which our shops are located, often have events around this theme, and so do fashion magazines, PR companies etc.

• Design vs the personality of the designer

This is the most important factor. I value the designer’s thoughts, and the stories behind their creations more than anything else.

• Company infrastructure (reliability)

It is important for brands to offer “after care” services. Jewellery is expensive and people often put their heart into their purchases especially if it's for a gift or anniversary. If it breaks, for example, it needs to be repaired by the brand. If not, they will end up losing trust, and so will we. In Japan, we have more requests for repairs, re-polishes etc from customers compared to Europe or America. If they keep offering good services, then it will help us in keeping loyal customers. It is important for brands to have a reliable production set-up when we try out new brands.

"As it's no longer a time of mass consumption,

we look to buy creations with originality that will touch the heart.

Our buying decisions are not only motivated by business."

Have you seen shifts in consumer shopping patterns in Japan?

I used to see consumers enjoying shopping by visiting one store after another. They also valued time to go out shopping freely.

However, it looks now that these precious times are being cut shorter due to rapid developments in various fields. Due to the rise of digital commerce people can buy things without seeing them first. Time has shifted faster to internet shopping and buying from physical stores will need added value in future.

What would be your advice to both young and established brands who are looking to get onto the buyers' radar?

When selling goods, just having physical stores to offer them is not enough for consumers nowadays. We need to unite with brands and sell together as a unit. I do not consider the relationship between “brands” and “buyers” as one of “sellers” and “customers”, but prefer to work as collaborators with one another. So, we like brands to provide us with promotional tools in good time, to convey their world to consumers.

As it's no longer a time of mass consumption, we look to buy creations with originality that will touch the heart. Our buying decisions are not only motivated by business.

www.hpfrance.com