Human Connections: The Foundation of the Jewelry Industry

In an era of AI-generated design, ChatGPT-crafted brand language, and Google searches standing in for authentic research—where luxury can be purchased with a single click, without ever speaking to live person—it is both refreshing and exhilarating to encounter designers and brands that remain rooted in human connection. These are the makers who value the love, respect and bonds of family and the rich, varied relationships that continue to form the foundation of the jewelry industry.

This is what prompted my co-author, Sonia Esther Soltani, and me to create a book that serves as a testament to the people behind the jewelry—the contemporary partners and multigenerational families who have built successful collections and businesses grounded in passion, trust and unbridled creativity.

In Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos & Generational Gems (ACC Artbooks), independent designers and brands share their triumphs and trepidations, what inspires them, how they have evolved and the paths that led them to where they are today.

They offer insight into the behind-the-scenes realities of their work and trajectories, along with anecdotes that are often heartfelt and sometimes humorous, as well as backstories that reflect their unique identities, heritage and contemporary visions.

Sonia explains “What became clear to me while working on this book is how much of these stories exists beyond what we usually see. In an environment saturated with press releases and increasingly standardized brand storytelling, important nuances are lost or blurred. The individuals we spoke to shared aspects of their journeys that rarely surface publicly: personal lived experiences that underpin both the creation of a jewel and the building of a business.”

The ‘Dynamic Duos’ chapter includes siblings, parents and children, married couples, and close friends. These teams have forged a distinctive signature style with personality and professional skills that complement each other.

‘Generational Gems’ features those who work together and have learned from their trailblazing ancestors, who have handed down their skills and experience. They have built their reputation and standing by staying relevant through the respect of family values and innovation, whether they are carrying on the traditions or have struck out on their own to launch a new approach and techniques in their successful collections.

Renato Cipullo was kind enough to write the foreword for the book and explains, “family is important for most people, but when family and work are woven together, that importance takes on a new dimension; it becomes the fabric of legacy. “ In describing his being a part of multi-generations of jewelers, he goes on to say that he was born in a tiny square in Naples on a street nicknamed ‘Via dei Orefici,’ which translates as ‘street of the jewelers.’ His father became the largest importer of Mallorcan pearls and he was also known for jewelry such as ‘mine’ charms and mariner chains (now commonly known as the ‘Gucci link’). Therefore Renato and his siblings grew up around jewelry. He entered the business at the age of 12 and began designing two years later first in Ischia and then Paris.

He goes on to say, “During a very cold time of the year, I called my brother, Aldo Cipullo, who had already moved to Manhattan and was designing first for David Webb and then for Tiffany & Co., before he became iconic for his designs for Cartier. He asked me to come to New York. As Italian brothers, our relationship was important by its very nature. This translated into our work in dynamic ways, as Aldo was able to do a quick sketch and I could easily understand his vision and interpret it into a model. I still work with some of the craftsmen and artisans who Aldo introduced me to during that time. Working like this with family creates a unique bond that I believe strengthens the meaning of our jewelry. This bond is something I experienced with my father, as well as with Aldo and my other siblings—and now with my youngest daughter, Serena. It’s one of the most rewarding partnerships of my life—teaching, learning, and growing alongside her. I feel fortunate Serena feels the same way I do when it comes to valuing and maintaining the skill of creating by hand and at the bench."

He sums up the heart of the book and of the personal nature of the business, “While there is always beauty in the innovations of jewelry manufacturing, the legacy of passing on the knowledge, craft, and camaraderie is one that I know many brands continue to cherish as they work alongside different members of their family or hand these aspects down through multiple generations.”

The following is a compilation of anecdotes from designers/brands in the book recounting their relationships and the inner workings/intimate tales behind the glittering jewels.

LORD JEWELRY:

Sinork Ağdere & Lena Ağdere Sedaka

Relationship: Father and Daughter

“The day Lena was born was when I met my greatest collaborator and earned the title of ‘father’ for the first time. She didn’t have much to say at first, but she made up for it later!” Sinork relates. Lena says, “From an early age, I watched my father work at the bench with an unmatched level of precision, passion, and craftsmanship. But beyond his artistry, he has taught me the deeper values that define a lasting legacy—resilience, integrity, and the courage to innovate.” She went on to talk about the marketing to their customers, “It’s about creating a deeper connection with people, sharing the heart and soul behind what we do. As a family-run business, our work is deeply personal and intentional, and that passion is reflected in every piece we create. Great branding isn’t just about recognition—it’s about resonance.”

Lord Jewelry Butterfly Bangle in 18K gold with diamonds and enamel.

Monica Rich Kosann

Monica Rich Kosann & Rod Kosann

Relationship: Husband and Wife

Rod Kosann describes Monica “She brings an everyday glass-half-full perspective to balance my occasional half-empty POV, which is an incredible advantage
in our business and our marriage.” In describing how their partnership works at the office, Monica states, “Being married to your business partner can at times be challenging but most of the time it works. Rod is the CEO and I am the CCO. He handles the business end, and I handle the creative. We both run Monica Rich Kosann together with an amazing team. Patience is important when you are in business with your spouse. “

Monica Rich Kosann Audrey Link Charm Bracelet in 18K gold with Locket charm, Queen Bee charm, mother-of-pearl Happiness Sun and Star charm, Adventure Compass charm and enamel Sundial—Time Is Precious charm.

 

Sethi Couture

Pratima & Prerna Sethi

Relationship: Siblings

Pratima reports that her parents’ owning a diamond business inspired both her and Prerna. “Their entrepreneurial spirit became part of our DNA, even before we realized its influence. Yet, as we came of age, we felt a calling that echoed yet diverged from theirs —a compelling urge to forge our own distinctive path. Prerna adds, “Growing up hearing stories about vintage-cut diamonds, my sister and I would dream and have whispered conversations about one day creating jewelry that exudes the same timeless enchantment. We stepped away from the traditional model our parents had built, not in rejection but in evolution, creating something uniquely ours while carrying forward the core values they instilled in us: authenticity, resilience, and the courage to envision something new. We decided to blend tradition with innovation, heritage with fresh perspective. In this way, we are honoring our mother’s brave arrival on distant shores, while transforming it into our own arrival at new creative frontiers.”

Sethi Couture Asha 18K white- and yellow-gold stacking rings with diamonds.

Sorellina

Nicole Carosella & Kim Carosella

Relationship: Siblings

Nicole expresses, “I love that I get to create actual magic! Jewelry lets me create wearable art that carries real power. Plus, I get to make beautiful things with my sister every day. Even on my worst days, we’re still playing with sparkly treasures!” Kim follows up by saying, “Our partnership reflects our personalities: Nicole is the creative, the artist who brings beauty and whimsy to our designs; I’m the grounded one who keeps the business moving forward. It’s that balance of dreamer and doer that makes us work so well together.”

Sorellina Gli Amanti Tarot Card Pendant in 18K gold with sapphires, tsavorite, amethyst, and diamonds on a 12.06 ctw pink mother-of-pearl background.

Coomi Jewels

Coomi & Sahil Bhasin

Relationship: Mother & Son

Coomi relates, “The best part of my life and my career is that I get to work with one of my children. We have a lot of fun together and are extremely close as family and as friends, Yet in business we always agree to disagree. I stick to my designing and Sahil handles everything else. It’s a perfect arrangement. Sahil doesn’t miss a beat explaining, “My mom is quite stubborn and never compromises on design. She is a true artisan and a trailblazer. I am more of a businessman and have tried for years to make her design for more mass appeal, but she holds her ground and sticks to her artistic philosophy.”

Coomi Trinetra Ring in 20K gold set with diamonds, tsavorites, and pink tourmalines.

Aurora

Tiffany Chao & Sarah Fitzpatrick

Relationship: Friends

Tiffany identifies her and Sarah’s relationship. “We are best friends, business partners,
and each other’s ‘ride or die’. Our bond is truly special, built on years of love, laughter, and unwavering support.” Sarah concurs, “we’ve been by each other’s sides through life’s ups and downs.” In business, Tiffany says, “we reinvigorate familiar, relatable concepts that have a sense of wit, surprise, and always a touch of drama. Our creations also blend nostalgia, playful elements, and the pop colors of the ’90s—the era in which Sarah and I grew up—with a refined, contemporary approach to fine jewelry.”

Aurora 14K gold pendant with star-set sapphires, spinning diamond bail and emerald latch.

Jade Trau
Fifth-generation, founder and designer

Jade tells a bit of her family’s start in the diamond trade, “It dates from the late 1800s with my grandfather’s father, Chaim Trau. During World War II, the entire family fled Belgium. After the war, my grandfather’s two brothers started cutting rough diamonds again. My grandfather immigrated to the USA and was working as a rabbi in Brooklyn. One day, one of his constituents said, “Are you Trau from the diamond business?” and asked if he would be able to order some diamonds from his family. That one package of baguettes resulted in my grandfather turning his rabbi career into a side gig, while his main profession became diamonds. He later became a sight holder for De Beers and had a cutting and polishing wholesale business on 47th Street for many years. She talks about visiting him when she was a young girl, “My mother would take me to my grandfather’s office. He’d sit me down with a parcel of diamonds and let me sort through all the shapes and count them. At the end, he’d let me pick one that he’d keep in a special paper parcel with the other ones I’d chosen. Those might have been my first thoughts of starting a jewelry line when I grew up.” She continues, “People talk about a ‘want’ versus a ‘need.’ Starting my own line of jewelry and doing what I’m doing today felt like a ‘need.’ I was destined for this.”

Jade Trau antique-inspired drop earrings in 18K gold and platinum with pear-shaped diamonds.

Julius Klein

Martin Klein & Mark Klein

Second and third generation, CEO/President and Vice President

Mark quips, “I always thought it was funny that some people refer to my father as ‘The Godfather’. I always imagined him saying, ‘I’ll make you a diamond you can’t refuse.’” Martin talks about lessons learned working with family. “You think you’ll have one vision, but you learn that each person has their own way of doing things, which can add something valuable. You’d be surprised how many diverse ideas and perceptions can come from one family. Listening to and being open to those ideas is instrumental to helping you grow.”

Julius Klein white and yellow diamond tennis bracelet.

Lalaounis

Demetra Lalaouni
Third generation, CEO International

Demetra explains, “My three sisters and I always knew that we would join the family business. It wasn’t a matter of if, but when. My earliest memories are of my three sisters and me, in our original workshop at the foot of the Acropolis, hammering away; more often than not, deconstructing rather than creating anything, but always with great zeal and passion!,” she admits and then goes on to describe her father’s legacy, “At the dawn of the jet-set age in the 1960s, and with personalities such as Aristotle and Jackie Onassis putting the spotlight on Greece, my father, Ilias, set out to reimagine ancient Greek artifacts and transform them into contemporary jewelry creations.” She talks about how she and her sisters carried his vision forward, “We continue to evolve while honoring the past, and most importantly staying true to the spirit and DNA of our brand. We build on traditions rather than change them and continue to use all our hand-crafted signature techniques, while adding and add our own vision, creativity, and innovation.”

Lalaounis 18K gold mixed cuff and bangle bracelet stack.

Nadine Aysoy
Third generation, designer

Born into the world of diamonds, Nadine explains, “My grandfather P.N. Ferstenberg became a sight holder for De Beers, created a diamond-cutting factory with about 300 workers, and trading offices in Antwerp, Tel Aviv, New York, and Sydney. In the ’60s and ’70s, he was the main supplier of diamonds to companies such as Bulgari and the King of Belgium.”, she continues, “My father was also part of the business. As children, my two sisters and I were allowed to clean and count diamonds and often visited the polishing factory. Nadine also recalls, “I still have pictures of my grandfather with [Italian actress] Gina Lollobrigida, well known as a jewelry collector, who came to buy diamonds in his office,”. Although I grew up in this world, I went into banking for 24 years before launching her jewelry collection. Wishing to do something more creative, I took a leap of faith and circled back to what enchanted me so much as a young girl.”

Nadine Aysoy: Catena Petite Illusion Diamond Ring in 18K gold with an illusion-cut cluster of baguette-and brilliant-cut diamonds.

Selim Mouzannar

Selim Mouzannar Ranwa Mouzannar, Namir Mouzannar

Third and fourth generation,
CEO & COO, Brand Manager, and Head of Laboratory and Workshop Innovation

Selim who was born into a lineage of artisans and stepped away from his family’s enterprise to start his own business says, “I believe that professional heritage isn’t necessarily an easy or predetermined path. While it provides a strong foundation, each generation brings its own creativity and innovation to the business.” He remembers, “When I was 10 years old. I would spend my school vacations at my father’s shop and workshop in the jewelry souk of Beirut. His daughter Ranwa has her own recollections, “I remember our father Selim’s small workshop when Namir and I were children. The hum of tools, the scent of polished metal, and the rhythmic work of jewelers. In that modest space, he would carefully examine each piece through his loupe, sharing his knowledge with precision. What started as a small workshop has since grown into a full-fledged factory, built on his dedication and skill.” Selim adds, “While we have maintained the core principles of traditional jewelry-making, we’ve injected more joy and contemporary elements into the designs, all while working with my son and daughter to honor the craftsmanship and techniques passed down through the generations. Today, the collection carries the story of a family, a city and a jeweler who continues to shape beauty with both memory and imagination.”

Selim Mouzannar: Beirut Rosace Bracelet in 18K gold with colored tourmalines and diamonds.