The Virtual Jewellery Marketplace
Phrases like ‘radical individuality,’ ‘forward-thinking design,’ and ‘rarity redefined through responsibility’ are central to the ethos of the Fiametta, the contemporary fine jewelry brand founded and designed by Merill Hollander. She explains, “Each element of the designs has been considered through both a human and environmental lens, and all of our pieces are crafted to evoke a celebration of self-expression.” Named after the Italian phrase for ‘little fiery one’, the collection to date has been centered around lab-grown diamonds, recycled gold, and for its newest collection – ethically sourced natural gemstones.

The inaugural Pride collection, which is being launched to coincide with Pride Month, “marks a meaningful evolution for the brand and a deeply personal milestone,” says Hollander, a proud member of the LGBTQ+ community.

We caught up with Hollander to talk about her inspirations, aesthetic and the latest collection:

What year did you launch the brand, and what were your first groups in the collection?

“I unveiled Fiametta in October 2024, but I had been working on the line for almost two years. I started with two collections: Infinitezza and Spiral of Strength. Infinitezza is what I consider my most wearable, stackable, everyday pieces. The collection was inspired by two shapes – the pear and the emerald cut – and the contrast between them. I thought that these two shapes could form an infinite number of layering looks unique to the wearer. Spiral of Strength has been a labor of love and proved to be extremely technically challenging to produce. Now that the collection is out in the world, I am thrilled that it is resonating with clients. The spirals of diamonds completely surround each piece, so they look just as beautiful on display as they do when worn. They are objets d’art as much as they are jewelry.”

Fiametta founder and designer, Merill Hollander, wearing the Pride collection

How have you evolved over the years?

“The biggest evolution of the brand — which is just beginning with the launch of the Pride collection — is our expansion into colored stones. My philosophy has always been to blend the traditional and the non-traditional, in everything from our messaging to the materials we use.

In keeping with this approach, we’re mixing lab-grown diamonds and natural stones, as I believe it’s important to embrace modern technology and traceability. I’m excited about the design possibilities now available through lab-grown diamonds, which are sustainably produced using renewable energy.

The colored stone landscape is very different from that of natural diamonds, and it’s possible to source them ethically and sustainably. That said, I don’t believe the quality of lab-grown colored stones has caught up to their natural counterparts — and I never want to sacrifice quality. This reflects our unconventional approach and our willingness to embrace materials in a way that makes sense for both our customers and our collections. We’re not afraid to try something new.”

EDITION I: Reclaimed 1.20-carat vintage ruby from Thailand, paired with lab-grown diamonds and set in 14K recycled gold.

How would you describe the brand's aesthetic?

“I’m all about contrasts in everything we do; our designs are bold yet understated, minimal yet emotive.”

What is your favorite piece in the collection so far?

“The Double Link Earrings from the Spiral of Strength Collection; they are so versatile and comfortable. The bottom link can be removed to create a very wearable and chunky everyday earring. The removable link also doubles as a pendant that can be added to any chain.”

Could you describe the new Pride collection and the inspiration behind it?

“I had been thinking about this collection since I started Fiametta, and it was a goal of mine to produce a collection that introduces a new material language. It consists of seven one-of-a-kind charms, created with 14K recycled gold, vivid natural-colored stones and lab-grown diamonds that come together to create a rainbow which celebrates identity and expresses rarity. It’s our first foray into colored stones and each stone has its own ethical sourcing story. Additionally, it is my way of honoring a community that has inspired and shaped my perspective, personally and professionally.”

EDITION II: 1.71-carat hessonite garnet, ethically traced from the Jeffrey Mine, Ontario.

Can you go into more detail about this aspect?

“One of the most inspiring parts of the queer community to me, is the way that we critically engage with tradition, choosing to keep what resonates, and replace what doesn’t with something new. That is the lens through which I approach Fiametta – keeping what feels meaningful to me but not being afraid to try something different. When I started designing, this directly translated to the use of lab-diamonds, but I’m looking forward to seeing how else we can reimagine the way things have always been done within jewelry.”

EDITION III: 0.73-carat yellow sapphire, responsibly sourced from a Fair Trade partner in Sri Lanka.

How did you find the colored stones for the collection?

“I was able to visit the Tucson gem show for the first time this year, with the goal of sourcing each stone in the collection. It was a challenge to find a perfect rainbow of one-of-a-kind stones, each ethically sourced, but so fulfilling when it all came together. The best and most unexpected part of creating the collection was building a network of stone suppliers who cared about sustainability and ethical sourcing as much as I do. They worked so hard to help me achieve that goal. I think these standards, and the fact that each piece is one-of-a-kind, really sets the collection apart from what’s on the market today.”

EDITION IV: Emerald: Reclaimed Colombian emerald, 0.43 carats, sourced responsibly from vintage jewelry.

What led to your decision to produce the Pride collection in a limited quantity?

“There’s no other community that celebrates or encourages individuality in the way the LGBTQ+ community does, so it felt fitting that the collection reflect that by having each piece to be one-of-a-kind and individually numbered and dated.”

EDITION V: Blue Sapphire: 1.14-carat sapphire, carefully reclaimed from vintage pieces, Sri Lanka.

Where will the Pride Collection be available?

"It is available exclusively at Fiametta.com for the month of June, and in person at Trove in New York City, where Fiametta will be the designer-in-residence from June 9 to July 6, 2025."

EDITION VI: Purple Sapphire: Moyo sapphire, 1.39 carats, responsibly mined by a women-led collective in Tanzania.

Will you be supporting any charity with this collection and if so which one?

“A portion of the proceeds from each piece supports the Ali Forney Center in New York City. I think it is so important to support the young people in our community. Being young and LGBTQ+ has its challenges, but being LGBTQ+ and experiencing family rejection that leads to homelessness is even more challenging. The LGBTQ+ community speaks about chosen family often and I think it’s so important to give the young people in our community support and resources to thrive.”

EDITION VII: Pink Spinel: Vietnamese 0.73-carat spinel, ethically sourced from artisan stone cutters.

Have you thought about what will come next for Fiametta?

“Our collections tell different types of stories. Representation of all demographics is very important to us, and we will continue to take the approach that anyone can wear our jewelry confidently. Our next collection is another twist on tradition, with modern reinterpretations of antique jewelry styles in our signature lab-grown diamonds, and now ethically sourced colored gems.”

The Pride collection by Fiametta is available online now, and at Trove in New York City from June 9 to July 6, 2025.

Photos courtesy of Fiametta

11 June 2025
Website by Beachshore